There aren’t many red grapes that thrive in the mountainous far reaches of where grapes can be grown. One such grape, though, is Lagrein, found almost exclusively in the Alpine corners of Italy, Austria, and Germany and when done well it can be magical.

From the expert wine-makers at the Cantina Andriano cooperative in Alto-Adige, we have this Lagrein ‘Rubeno’ which showcases all of Lagrein’s charm. Medium bodied with an Alpine freshness accompanied by a stony minerality and earthy undertones, inky in colour but lighter on its feet than you might expect. Bramble fruits hop out of the glass here, with notes of blackberry, blackcurrant, raspberries and black cherry. There are floral notes too, with hints of dried rose petals peaking out. The palate is bright and fresh with gentle tannins, a silky finish and the acidity so lifting that this is a joy to pair with food.

The social cooperative Cantina Andriano has been producing wine in this region for decades. The winery is joint owned by its 50+ growers who contribute to and share in the winery’s successes.