Why don’t more people drink and love Viognier? Perhaps it’s because so many examples from Europe, from France in particular – lovely though they can be – can sometimes tend towards a heaviness of texture and aromatic profile that limits the appetite for a second or third glass. Introducing Serbal, then, with a delicacy of touch throughout – subtle aromas of peach, lemon and white flowers, no oak, and a splendid zip of acidity on the palate. That ‘oiliness’ in the mouth that can sometimes feel a bit laboured is blissfully absent here, in a wine that is simultaneously exotic on the nose and vertical in the mouth.